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Fair Italy, the land of song and cradle of the Arts, has been so often written about, and so well described both in prose and in verse, that I feel there is a presumption in my attempting to say anything fresh of that classic land, its art treasures, and its glorious past. But within the last few years a new Italy has sprung into existence—the dream of Cavour has been realized; and, contrary to all predictions, she has evinced a union and cohesiveness so complete as to surprise all, and possibly disappoint some who were jealous of her. What. | FAIR ITALY. THE RIVIERA AND MONTE CARLO FAIR ITALY. THE RIVIERA AND MONTE CARLO COMPRISING A TOUR THROUGH NORTH AND SOUTH ITALY AND SICILY WITH A SHORT ACCOUNT OF MALTA BY W. COPE DEVEREUX R.N. F.R.G.S. AUTHOR OF A CRUISE IN THE GORGON IN THE SUPPRESSION OF THE SLAVE TRADE LONDON KEGAN PAUL TRENCH CO. 1 PATERNOSTER SQUARE 1884 The rights of translation and of reproduction are reserved. TO MY DEAR WIFE THIS VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED IN REMEMBRANCE OF OUR HAPPY TOUR IN FAIR ITALY. PREFACE. Fair Italy the land of song and cradle of the Arts has been so often written about and so well described both in prose and in verse that I feel there is a presumption in my attempting to say anything fresh of that classic land its art treasures and its glorious past. But within the last few years a new Italy has sprung into existence the dream of Cavour has been realized and contrary to all predictions she has evinced a union and cohesiveness so complete as to surprise all and possibly disappoint some who were jealous of her. What was once a conglomeration of petty rival states is now one constitutionally governed kingdom. Italy has ceased to be only a geographical name she is now a nation whose voice is listened to at the council tables of the Great Powers. The old terms of Piedmontese Tuscan Lombard and Neapolitan have no longer aught but a local significance from the Alps to Tarentum every one glories in the name of free united Italy and feels proud of being an Italian. Young Italy is so rapidly developing the resources of her gifted people viii and of her fruitful lands that she daily becomes more interesting to all who sympathize with a free and vigorous country more especially to the English who have many interests in common with her and few if any reasons to fear either antagonism or competition. And the beautiful Riviera Where God s pure air sweet flowers blue sea and skies Combine to make an earthly Paradise. Yes the Riviera is certainly one of the loveliest spots